Photo-etched under control!
Photo-etched parts are a great way to add detail to your models, still in isn't always easy to position and affix them them well. General use CA bonds too quickly to position the parts well, forms brittle bond and attacks plastic. Flexy 5k is the opposite of standard CA + it comes in 25 ml bottle!
Flexy 5k allows you to easily position PE parts and the resulting flexible bond is way more durable and not brittle at all!
Flexible CA bond!
Have you ever lost or have to re-glue some PE parts during painting or weathering or maybe just by accident why manipulating your model? If so this glue is for you! Flexible bond created with Flexy 5k withstands much more punishment than classic brittle CA. This essentially means less accidentally lost parts and more productive and enjoyable work as there is much less need to reglue more vulnerable parts such as antennas, clamps, clasps, wing nuts and the like.
1.5x longer manipulation time
Extended open time of our photo etch glue (150% the standard CA) allows for good positioning of PE parts. You will also be able to glue tricky parts (both PS and metal) that produce tension. Gluing metal to metal works fine as well, please look at the photo on the top left of the screen, lamp guard on this tank was made out of copper wire. Segments were glued together with just the Flexy 5k, no soldering was needed, metal to metal adhesion is great and the bond durable! Dispensed glue is "live" for over 45 minutes!
Not aggressive towards PS
Flexy is less aggressive and more easily removed when necessary it doesn't "eat plastic" as classic CAs. therefore it is more easily removed when needed. Most of the time simple scrubbing followed by some sanding will do, no debonders needed.
See Flexy 5K PE in action!
Flexy 5k PE FAQ
What's the best technique for precise application of the glue?
Dispense a portion of photo-etch glue on a piece of styrene, glass or a metal sheet, never on cardboard as it will absorb your glue. Have a 10 cm long piece of straight brass or steel wire ready, its Ø 0.5-1 mm. The wire will act as your renewable glue applicator. Dip the tip of a brass or steel wire in the blob and then touch it to a PE part or the model itself. Bring the parts together. That's that! Now cut the tip of your applicator wire with your trusty modelling knife or better side cutters to start anew with a clean tip. Small parts can be held with tweezers and dipped in the blob without resorting to the wire.
I have dispensed a portion of the glue as per instruction, how long till it becomes useless?
A blob of glue is good about 45 minutes after it was dispensed. It gets thicker overtime. For best results and to conserve your glue dispense smaller blobs to always have a small amount of fresh glue at your disposal.
I have misaligned my PE part and want to reposition it!
Slide the tip of your hobby knife between the parts to separate them. Once the parts come apart scrub the remaining glue in the same manner, try sliding the tip between the glue remains and the part from the side, the glue will give in. PS may need some sanding after the procedure. We didn't recognise a need for debonder, Flexy 5k is modelling friendly.
I want to create a stronger metal to metal joint!
To make a metal to metal joint stronger simply sand the more demanding parts such as tank skirts (schurzen) barrels etc. By doing so you will achieve the following:
remove the patina,
remove possible dip coatings some PE manufacturers apply over the frets,
give the glue better adhesion thanks to the altered surface.
Use 600 - 1000 grade paper and sand only the spots that will accept the glue. Joints created this way are up to 50% stronger than smooth, not sanded metal which can be problematic if unprepared. When you sand your brass fret you will see the change in colour, it's a sign of a well prepared surface.
Please note: even apparently pristine frets are covered with some patina, it's natural for the brass to form a layer of it over time. If you can't see it it doesn't mean it's not there same goes for dip coatings.
There are problems with the joints I've created!
Fingerprints and any other residue don't help your cementing! Make sure you degrease surfaces and sand the more difficult metal parts if necessary to remove brass patina and/or dip coatings. Degreasing can be conducted with simple dish washing fluid for plastic parts. Metal can be degreased with dish washing fluid but you can also use more aggressive chemicals such as acetone which evaporates very quickly and requires no drying. We advise you degrease metal parts with VMS Styrene Cement (standard type) which is a solvent blend and degreases better than basic chemicals (pure acetone).
What's the shelf life of the glue?
Opened bottle can last 6-8 months (often longer if you take good care of it), this depends on glue variant (thinner glues can be stored for longer) and storage conditions. Unopened bottle will be good for 12-18 months depending on glue type provided it's stored in a room temperature: around 20 °C, best temp. for storage is around 15 °C. Store in a dark place, avoid direct sunlight.
My glue bottle contents seem low?
Yes, that's no mistake, all bottles are filled at around 2/3 of their capacity. The amount of glue will last an average modeller a 1.5-2 years. After that time it's a advised to acquire a new bottle due to the glue ageing.