Spot-On pigments: Outstanding results guaranteed!
Sure-fire blends along with professional mixing substrates for mixing your own colours. Great adhesion and vibrancy. Big 45 ml jars. We thought of everything!
Pigments make the weathering world go round! Properly applied allow us to create various, realistic weathering jobs. Use pigments with specialised Pigment Expert binders to produce your dream weathering effect!
Never see a bad pigment job again!
Spot-on pigments are up to scale, tested-safe colours that will naturally harmonise with your model's paint coat, no matter if it's Russian green or panzer grey. Spot-ons remain accurate regardless of technique and medium used. No matter if you use them with binders (which affect colour in a number of ways) or apply the pigments as simple dusting the colours will remain appropriate! Our blends contain up to 4 basic colours for maximum accuracy!
Pigments that stick around!
Spot-ons are 100% filler free meaning the colours are vibrant and the grain size is in order. Grain sizes are 0,2 µm and less! Light colours are mixed strictly with true white, high strength pigments. This ensures they adhere great and produce a vibrant finish. Spot-ons are a proprietary mix of both natural and synthetic pigments to ensure both great adhesion and vibrancy.
Use ready-made colours or mix your own!
The "READY" icon signifies a pigment that has been premixed for you. Simply combine it with your chosen binder or use alone. You will end up with a great result in any case.
Spot-on pigments is the first pigment line to include dedicated sure-fire mixing colours. Pigments with "MIX" icon in their description are dedicated for mixing. Mixing your unique dream colour is a snap now!
Mixing Grey XT Light tone (concrete) in mixing action!
This is a special colour for creatve modellers. By mixing with other dedicated mixing colours you can extend your colour range dramatically! Whatever colour you have in mind this will help create it!
MIXING OCHRE INTENSIVE
LIGHTER DULL SHADES
MIXING OCHRE LIGHT
LIGHTER DULL SHADES
MIXING OCHRE RED
LIGHTER DULL SHADES
No. 15b Mixing Grey XT Bright Concrete
Light grey is used to tone down and lighten any intensive colour. Resulting colour is less flashy and will blend with your model base coat better. Great for mixing your own light earth and dust variants, faded and washed colours. Best used with Mxinig Ochres (Spot-On pigments No. 16abc). If you find colours mixed with whites too flashy and intensive this will do the trick! Used alone represents concrete very well.
Recommended techniques: mixing colour, dusting
Combine with: Alkyd, ENML 2.0 or acrylic binders
Available textures: zero
Available volumes: 45 ml jar
I want to mix earth colours which mixing pigment types to use?
You need to use Mixing Ochres (Spot-on pigments No. 16abc) along with Mixing Grey or Yellow "Intensive" types. For neutral and somewhat "dirty" cold earth tones you should use Spot-On pigment No. 15a Mixing Grey Intensive. For a bit warmer shades with a hint of yellow please use Spot-On pigment No. 14a Mixing Yellow Intensive.
I want to mix much lighter shades, such as dust and sand, which mixing pigments to use?
You need to use Mixing Ochres (Spot-on pigments No. 16abc) along with Mixing Grey or Yellow "XT Bright" types. For neutral tones approaching grey use Spot -on pigment No.15b Mixing Grey XT Bright. For warmer shades with a hint of yellow go with Spot-on pigment No. 14b - Mixing Yellow XT Bright.
I need to mix dark earth tones, which pigments to use?
You need to use Mixing Ochres along with Soot Black - Spot-on pigment No. 12a. Each ochre gives you a different shade of dark earth. Please check out "in action" presentations to learn about the nuances.
What's the difference between Intensive and XT Bright Mixing pigments variants? (grey and yellow)
"Intensive" variants of Mixing Greys and Yellows allow the colours that they are mixed with to retain more of their original vibrancy. XT Bright variants yield more "washed out" colours. Use "intensives" for earth colours and "XT Brights" for dusts and sands.
What's the difference between high and low opacity whites?
Low opacity white (Spot-on pigment No. 13b) is partially transparent therefore it mixes very well, doesn't dominate the other colours and doesn't form clumps - you won't need power equipment to mix it in. High opacity white (Spot-on pigment No. 13a) is hard to mix in without power equipment but it has superb adhesion capability - use it alone while creating fading and similar effects it sticks very well and colour strength is unparalleled.
How to tell the good stuff from colourful dirt?
It's simple really. Good pigments have the colours up to scale (toned down) and easily cover the surface when applied as weathering liquid (mixed with binders and spread over the model with a brush). Even coverage is the case when grain size is in order, cheap pigments and fillers alike have big grain size which causes all sorts of problems in modelling. Poor adhesion and coverage issues are the main concern.
On the left VMS Spot-on EU brown earth on the right generic "sienna". Not only is the colour way off but look at the grain size and uneven coverage of "sienna' generic colour! We used the same binders and technique, gritty pigments will always lose to finer powders!
What's the deal with natural and synthetic pigments?
Contemporary pigments used in modelling fall into two categories: natural pigments or simply “earth” pigments which are ground minerals and synthetic pigments obtained by chemical reactions. Earth pigments have crystalline structure, while synthetic pigments have microcrystalline structure. Both types have their strengths and weaknesses.
Crystalline vs. Microcrystalline?
Crystalline earth pigment particles are slightly bigger, they adhere a bit worse but they allow the light to pass through and a result they produce more vibrant and natural effect. Microcrystalline synthetics have smaller particle size, they easily form tightly packed clumps and don't let so much light through. As a result they produce dull layers but adhere better. We determined that best results can be achieved while using blends of two pigment types rather than sticking strictly to earth or synthetics. VMS Spot-On pigment blends get the best of two worlds as they combine crystalline and microcrystalline pigments.
What are fillers?
Fillers are cheap white powders with grain sizes much greater that those of pigments'. Smaller pigment grains surround and stick to a bigger filler grains. The volume is increased, less pigment is needed to fill a jar, price is reduced but so is the pigment's quality and the final result - your weathering job. If some pigments you came across seem surprisingly cheap this might mean that fillers are involved. Fillers include treated plaster and chalk variants.
How do fillers affect my pigments?
Remember those grainy pigment that wouldn't stick to your model? Addition of fillers makes pigments lose vibrancy and fall off of your model easily as the grains size is out of order and don't fill the micro pores on your model so easily.
What about conserving my pigments by using plaster? My mates at modelling forum say it's OK.
You are free to add fillers like plaster to your pigments to conserve them, the problem is you may find it difficult to properly mix it in - white clumps of plaster may appear later on as you spread your weathering liquid or paste. Another drawback is the loss of vibrancy - colours will get washed out and present bad finish. Therefore we generally don't advocate the use of fillers such as plaster. To ensure that Your creative process is unhindered we offer bigger jars of the real thing and more affordable textured pigments. If there is pigment shortage and you are in a dire need of it you may add from 10+15% of plaster and be safe. For creating mud deposits; increasing volume use textured pigments which form realistic structures more easily than pigments mixed with simple plaster which lacks texture.